“A Local Delicacy Nurtured by the Mystical Lake”
Lake Towada Kokanee (sockeye salmon) is a freshwater fish from the salmon family, raised in the pristine waters of Lake Towada, a lake often described as mystical, located in Towada City, Aomori Prefecture. Because it grows in clean, cold water, the fish lacks the typical odor of river fish and is known for its elegant and delicate flavor. With its beautiful appearance and rarity, it’s also referred to as the “phantom fish” and is cherished as a symbol of local pride.
“A Challenge Born from a Fishless Lake”
Lake Towada was once considered a “fishless lake,” as Choshi Otaki Falls on the Oirase River acted as a natural barrier, preventing fish from entering and settling in the lake. Although char were introduced in 1855 during the late Edo period, they failed to thrive. In 1903 (Meiji 36), under the request of Aomori Prefecture, Mr. Sadayuki Wainai received 50,000 kokanee salmon eggs from Lake Shikotsu in Hokkaido. He successfully hatched and released them into Lake Towada. Two years later, kokanee salmon were seen gathering in the shallow shoreline to spawn, marking the beginning of successful breeding.
“Ecology and Traditional Fishing of Lake Towada Kokanee”
The kokanee is a landlocked form of sockeye salmon that no longer migrates to the ocean but spends its entire life in freshwater. In Lake Towada, the spawning season runs from September to November. During this time, mature fish gather along the southern shore of the Nishinoumi (Western Lake), where they are captured using beach seine nets. The fertilized eggs are then artificially hatched, and the young fish are released into the lake the following early summer. It takes around four years for them to reach full maturity, growing to about 30–40 cm in length. The fish are harvested using gillnet fishing, with strict regulations on net size and placement. Determining the correct depth, or tana, at which the fish swim is essential, making it a highly skilled and demanding practice.
“The Unique Flavor of Lake Towada Kokanee”
Lake Towada Kokanee has translucent pink flesh with just the right amount of fat. It is especially prized as sashimi, with a melt-in-the-mouth texture. When grilled with salt, the fish becomes soft and juicy, highlighting its natural umami. It also works well in a variety of dishes including meunière, sweet soy simmered dishes, and smoked preparations. Among these, the smoked kokanee is particularly tender and pairs exceptionally well with wine.
“A True Regional Treasure”
At the lakeside roadside station Michi-no-Eki Towadako Himemasu-no-Sato Wainai, you can find a variety of specialty products made with kokanee. One standout item is the “Lake Towada Kokanee Fish Sauce,” aged for two years to develop a rich, deep umami flavor, and it was the first certified regional product. Another favorite is the Lakeside Rouge Wine, made from local mountain grapes. These products are highly praised as souvenirs by tourists visiting the area.
Nurtured by the natural beauty of Lake Towada and the dedication of the local people, Lake Towada Kokanee (sockeye salmon) is a culinary gem and a true point of pride for Towada City. If you have the chance to visit, be sure to savor its exceptional taste.
